Five great suppers for night owls

HEALDSBURG
Barndiva. In a soaring mahogany barn just off Healdsburg town square, try fare like crispy Sonoma duck watercress salad. Come early to sip a caipirinha under lantern-strung trees in the garden. $$$; dinner until 11 Wed- Sun. 231 Center St.; www.barndiva.com or 707/431-0100.

SACRAMENTO
Kasbah Lounge. At a new dimly lit, glamorous hot spot, recline on cushions while sampling Moroccan-inspired small plates such as grilled merguez (spicy lamb sausage) with kumquats and fruity Lebanese rosé. $; dinner until 3 a.m. daily. 2115 J St.; 916/442-4388.

SAN FRANCISCO
Frisson. The name means "shiver of excitement" in French, and the lounge lit in orange and yellow neon lives up to the name. Try the cereal ice milk, which tastes like puffed rice. $$$; dinner until 11 Sun-Wed, until midnight Thu-Sat. 244 Jackson St.; www.frissonsf.com or 415/956-3004.

SAN FRANCISCO
Levende Lounge. Levende ("living" in Norwegian) feels more nightclub than restaurant―especially once the DJ starts turning tunes. But dishes like crispy smelt and artichokes are no afterthought. $$; dinner until 11 Tue-Sat. 1710 Mission St.; www.levendesf.com or 415/864-5585.

SAN FRANCISCO
Oola Restaurant & Bar. A relaxed vibe, an unfussy menu (burgers with truffle cheese), and great cocktails have made it SoMa's new hot hangout. $$$; dinner until 1 a.m. Tue-Sat, until 11 Sun, until midnight Mon. 860 Folsom St.; www.oola-sf.com or 415/995-2061. ―Amy Wolf

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