Idyllwild travel planner: art, nature, restaurants, and inns
In the rugged San Jacinto Mountains on the edge of arty Idyllwild, the silence is broken by a primal sound: a castanet-like rhythm that freezes a pair of hikers in their tracks. There, next to a log maybe a foot off the trail, is a coiled rattlesnake, nearly black with a prominent diamond pattern and eight quivering rattles.
The rattler's sudden appearance is a reminder of Idyllwild's dual nature. Situated in a wooded canyon above Palm Springs, the mile-high village of 3,500 has a cultural life that towns many times its size might envy. With its out-the-door access to wilderness, it's also a destination for hikers, climbers, and other fresh-air fanatics.
Summer is prime season in Idyllwild. Its many galleries are joined by a busy schedule of events at the Idyllwild Arts Academy, a first-rate jazz festival swings in August, and the wild country that surrounds the town beckons.
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| David Zaitz |
| Café Aroma is as much a community center as an eatery; it features events like the "Shakespeare Smackdown" plus a lending library, live music, and an art gallery. |
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Rising above Idyllwild are steep, forested slopes broken by granite domes reminiscent of the Sierra Nevada. It was these internationally known climbing rocks that first drew local restaurateur Hubert Halkin to the area. After coming here to climb in the 1970s, the emeritus professor of mathematics at University of California, San Diego, made what he describes as a "progressive move" to Idyllwild. A native of France's mountainous Auvergne region, he loved Idyllwild's natural setting. He also discovered a town with many resident artists — screenwriters, musicians, and painters.
"These are people who came here to do the work they want to do," Halkin says. "Sometimes they may need to go to Los Angeles, but the rest of the time they can ply their craft in peace and serenity."
Halkin's restaurant, Café Aroma, is one of Idyllwild's creative hubs. Here you can dine under the stars and catch poetry readings or sets by jazz musicians. Inside, there's a library area, where people often just hang out and talk. And if it seems like everyone knows everyone at Café Aroma, that's no accident. "This is quite a bit of a social club," says Halkin. "We wanted to keep the place relaxed, arty, and a little funky."
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| David Zaitz |
| You can find ceramics and more at the many galleries in Idyllwild. |
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Which is a pretty good description of Idyllwild itself. With its knotty pine and log-cabin vibe, it's a bit of a throwback. For nearly 20 years, its most prominent landmark was the Idyllwild Tree Monument, a huge totem pole carved with a chainsaw from a ponderosa pine. The monument finally succumbed to woodpeckers and the elements, and its figures were auctioned off earlier this year. There's also a sophistication to Idyllwild, especially at its galleries, which feature local and international artists working in everything from glass and jewelry to traditional Native American crafts. Idyllwild has such a concentration of galleries that art critic John Villani named it one of the 100 best art towns in the country.
Idyllwild abounds in inspiration for its artists and visitors alike. Just head up the Devil's Slide Trail, past springs lined with wildflowers, to reach views of Tahquitz Rock that change as the clouds and fog drift and roll. Listen as the wind begins as distant rustling in the forest before arriving in the trees overhead like a crashing wave. It's a different kind of primal sound: serene yet invigorating, not unlike Idyllwild itself.
GETTING THERE Idyllwild is about 100 miles southeast of Los Angeles. For area information, contact the Idyllwild Chamber of Commerce (888/659-3259).
ARTS
14th Annual Jazz in the Pines Leading jazz artists perform on three stages in a beautiful outdoor setting. INFO: Aug 25–26; $55 per day, ages 12 and under (with adult) free; 52500 Temecula Dr.
Galleries Idyllwild has 18 galleries, many in the Village Centre along North Circle Dr. Rotating galleries host weekly Saturday Morning Art Cafés from 10 to noon, featuring artist demonstrations. INFO: 866/439-5278.
Idyllwild Arts Academy Workshops for adults and children, as well as lectures, recitals, and a gallery. INFO: 52500 Temecula Dr.; 951/659-2171.
Skye At Night Dance, music, spoken word, and theater performances in a gallery setting. INFO: $15 in advance, $20 at door; 7:30 p.m. daily; 54445 N. Circle Dr.; 800/863-4146.
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| David Zaitz |
| Get a taste of mountain air on Devil's Slide Trail, which rises to almost 11,000 feet. |
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OUTDOORSStop at the Idyllwild Ranger Station (8–4:30; Pine Crest Ave. at State 243; 951/659-2107). Adventure passes ($5) are required, and some hikes also require free wilderness day-use permits. Top trails include the following.
Deer Springs Trail A 6.5-mile round-trip; the 1,700-foot climb leads to dramatic Suicide Rock.
Devil's Slide Trail Outstanding views and beautiful forests on a 1,700-foot ascent on the 5-mile round-trip to Saddle Junction.
WHERE TO EATThe Bread Basket A popular spot for breakfast, with tables under the pines. INFO: $$; 54710 N. Circle Dr.; 951/659-3506.
Caf[SPECIAL_CHAR {233}] Aroma It's one of Idyllwild's prime gathering spots and offers a good selection of pastas. INFO: $$; 54750 N. Circle Dr.; 951/659-5212.
WHERE TO STAY
Quiet Creek Inn Modern duplex cabins with wood-burning fireplaces along Strawberry Creek. It also offers vacation rentals, including beautiful vintage cabins. INFO: From $120; 800/450-6110.
Strawberry Creek Inn This bed-and-breakfast offers rooms along its namesake creek where you can hang out in hammocks beneath the pines. INFO: From $115; 800/262-8969.
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