Guidebook Maui Revealed, by Andrew Doughty and Harriett Friedman (Wizard Publications, Lihue, HI; 2000; $14.95), is a good reference for exploring.

Hawaii's Best Bed & Breakfasts This reliable agency books a number of small B&Bs and cottages in Hana and Upcountry. (800) 262-9912.

Maui Visitors Bureau (800) 525-6284.

Rental cars: Most rental car companies nullify insurance and other coverage in contracts if you drive the designated sections of substandard road that we drove beyond Kipahulu in Hana and beyond Nakalele Point in West Maui. You could be fully liable for costs of any accidents or breakdowns on these roads.

Check specifics of the rental car company contracts and the extent of your personal automobile insurance coverage before heading out.