I look at rows of ice cream tubs, baffled about which flavor to choose. A deep voice with a Middle Eastern accent whispers, "Try the cucumber. Not much sugar — good for slimming."
The voice is that of Saeed Malekafzali, who has traveled to Westwood from Palos Verdes to enjoy Persian specialties from his homeland — the ice cream here at Rose Market (1922 Westwood Blvd.; 310/470-2121) being high on his list.
"It's the only place you'll find cucumber ice cream," Malekafzali continues, while Ali Rafye, owner and veteran ice cream maker, sits behind the checkout counter like a king upon his throne. "Or try the saffron or faloodeh." I opt for the latter, a traditional Persian rice-noodle sorbet drizzled with cherry syrup.
Persian shops and restaurants started popping up along Westwood Boulevard in the decade after Iran's 1979 Islamic revolution. The influx of immigrants resulted in what locals call Little Tehran (or, for some, Little Persia), and Los Angeles now has the highest concentration of Iranians in the United States.
Well-known Shaherzad (lunch and dinner daily; 1422 Westwood; 310/470-3242) is packed with locals who watch bread being baked in a traditional tanour, a dome-shaped ceramic oven. Other possibilities include Shamshiri Grill (lunch and dinner daily; 1712 Westwood; 310/474-1410) and Dahab Café (lunch and dinner daily; 1442 Westwood; 310/470-4885), an Egyptian restaurant where guests dine on kebabs while smoking flavored tobacco from ancient hookah pipes.
You'd expect Little Tehran to have wonderful rugs; the largest selection of Persian rugs in the country is said to be at Damoka (closed Wed; 1424 Westwood; 310/ 475-7900). Other finds are less expected. I'm struck by a tangerine-colored canvas in the window of a bookstore, Ketabsara (1441B Westwood; 310/477-4700). Inside, other canvases reveal the words of Persian poet Rumi in swooping black brushstrokes of Farsi calligraphy. It's a beautiful surprise, much like Little Tehran itself.
Touring Little Tehran
WHERE: Little Tehran is centered on Westwood Blvd. a few blocks north and south of Santa Monica Blvd. From I-405, take the Santa Monica Blvd. exit and continue east to Westwood Blvd.
