At the very south end of Los Angeles, the harbor town of San Pedro is undergoing a sea change. Lower rent and plenty of space in appealing buildings have drawn both emerging and established artists into an Old Town that is simultaneously bohemian and neighborly. Los Angeles' SoHo? It's getting there.
Do the Thursday night stroll, from galleries to restaurants
You do need to time your visit right. Many of the venues' hours and days of operation are limited. But on the first Thursday of every month, the community � and San Pedro, largely settled by Italian and Yugoslavian immigrants, is big on community � turns out for an art walk. Two dozen galleries and studios are open for browsing, with owners and artists (sometimes one and the same) on hand to chat.
The art scene revolves around a four-block area that radiates from the corner of Mesa and Seventh Streets. The caliber of works varies considerably, from unrefined to sophisticated, but if you know where to go you can see some extremely accomplished art. At the Loft, a thriving cooperative of 13 artists has made a home out of an old laundry. Here you can check out sculptures, neon art, and assemblages. Nearby, Med�a Gallery is an elegant arcade full of small galleries, many of which put out welcoming plates of appetizers during the First Thursday art walk.
Strolling can work up an appetite, and many local restaurants are open during and after the art walk. The Whale & Ale is a British pub that serves swell food, from bangers and mash to seafood, prime rib, and beef Wellington. Marcello Tuscany Room offers upscale Italian, while Papadakis Taverna is My Big Fat Greek Wedding come to life. The Sixth Street Bistro focuses on food from the Mediterranean region and features flamenco music on Thursday nights.
San Pedro's other art institution is Angels Gate Cultural Center�a sprawling arts campus on the former Fort MacArthur military base. Unfortunately, it isn't usually open on Thursday nights, so you'll need to come down earlier in the afternoon (or make a second trip) to really do things right. The center is worth the trouble: the airy, whitewashed studios house more than 50 artists, and the views of Los Angeles Harbor just may unleash your creative soul.
The art of San Pedro
For more information on the next First Thursday art walk, visit www.1stthursday.com.
GALLERIES
Angels Gate Cultural Center. 11�4 Tue�Sun. 3601 S. Gaffey St.; (310) 519-0936.
The Loft. Open First Thursday evenings and by appointment. 401 S. Mesa St.; www.lowri.com/the_loft or (310) 831-5757.
Med�a Gallery. Open First Thursday evenings and by appointment. 445 W. Seventh St.; www.medeagallery.com or (310) 833-3831.
DINING
Marcello Tuscany Room. Lunch Mon�Fri, dinner nightly. 470 W. Seventh; www.marcellobanquet.com or (310) 519-7100.
Papadakis Taverna. Dinner nightly. 301 W. Sixth St.; www.papadakistaverna.com or (310) 548-1186.
Sixth Street Bistro. Lunch Mon�Fri, dinner Tue�Sun. 354 W. Sixth; (310) 521-8818.
The Whale & Ale. Lunch and dinner daily. 327 W. Seventh; www.whaleandale.com or (310) 832-0363.