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Residents call it "the village" because, though Cole Valley is close to San Francisco's geographic heart, it can be its own world.
Its short business district has one auto shop, one hardware store, an art gallery, an antiques store, and plenty of good restaurants and wine shops. And if you visit this month, you might see Cole Valley's own celebrity summer visitors: San Francisco's wild parrots, who otherwise reside on Telegraph Hill, head to Cole Valley for summer break.
Even if you don't see the birds' green feathers, there's lots of green to be found here. "Four blocks in any direction and you're in a park," says resident Dan Nye, who has lived in the neighborhood since 1998.
Hike to the top of Tank Hill above Cole Street and you'll be able to see downtown, the bay, and the Golden Gate Bridge. Named for a long-gone water tank — only its foundation remains — the hill has trails with signs identifying area wildflowers.
On the way, check out the neighborhood novelty at 1591 Shrader Street: a sculpture of an angel carved from the trunk of a Monterey cypress.
But the best thing about a trip to this neighborhood is the good eating you can find along its streets. Start with Zazie, the well-loved provençal eatery. Or try the great pastries at Boulange de Cole Valley, opened late last year. Lunch might be hamburgers and fries from Burgermeister or quiche on the back patio of Reverie Cafe. Have a picnic in the park with treats from Say Cheese.
For dinner, try sushi at Grandeho's Kamekyo Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar or splurge on Asian fusion dishes at chic Eos.
Don't leave without checking out Kezar Bar & Restaurant. The bar's walls are lined with historic photos of a 19th-century football game at Kezar Stadium as well as of dairy farms where the neighborhood's busy streets now lie.
Looking at these images, you might be able to imagine the emergence of a village—a small town amid a big city. And that's pretty much how residents look at the place today.
WHERE: Cole St. at Carl St. marks the neighborhood center. Access to Tank Hill is at the east end of Belgrave Ave.
CONTACT: Boulange de Cole Valley: (415) 242-2442. Burgermeister: (415) 566-1274. Eos: (415) 566-3063. Grandeho's Kamekyo: (415) 759-8428. Kezar Bar & Restaurant: (415) 681-7678. Reverie Cafe: (415) 242-0200. Say Cheese: (415) 665-5020. Zazie: (415) 564-5332.
