The lap of luxury can be found on a hilltop in San Francisco. Nob Hill has long been the location of choice for the city's elite--but you don't have to be an heiress to enjoy the views from here. Ride up the hill on the California Street cable car, and you can revel in the world of the wealthy--at least for a day.
Huntington Park is the center of this posh neighborhood. Dog walkers and au pairs congregate at the Fountain of the Tortoises, in view of 1928 landmark Grace Cathedral. The French Gothic church offers divine song accompanied by the 7,286-pipe Aeolian-Skinner organ (twice weekly, plus monthly concerts). The more than 60 stained-glass windows, currently being restored, lift the spirit.
For indulgence of a material kind, head to one of the neighborhood's luxury hotels: Recent renovations at three ensure these crèmes de la crème are at their creamiest. Take tea under the domes at the Fairmont's Laurel Court or Sunday brunch at the Mark Hopkins's Top of the Mark, where the views are as splendid as ever. The Huntington Hotel has just completed the Nob Hill Spa, open to the public for facials, body wraps, swimming, and soaking.
For a regal meal, head to Charles Nob Hill. In the small, elegant dining room, you'll feel like you're feasting at the home of very wealthy French friends. If only they would pay for your meal. More casual is the Nob Hill Café, a small, homey Italian place with outstanding pastas.
It's too bad this life of luxury can't last. But not even royalty endures.
Grace Cathedral: 1100 California St.; (415) 749-6300. Fairmont San Francisco: 950 Mason St.; 772-5000. Mark Hopkins Inter-Continental: 1 Nob Hill; 392-3434. Nob Hill Spa, Huntington Hotel: $25 admission for nonguests; 1075 California; 345-2888. Charles Nob Hill: 1250 Jones St.; 771-5400. Nob Hill Café: 1152 Taylor St.; 776-6500.