There was an autumn 10 years ago when I was ready to move to Taos. I had made friends here and fallen hard for hikes in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains by day and raucous conversations over margaritas by night in Taos's de facto living room, the Adobe Bar.
Streets of curving adobe walls captured what I imagined pre-"Santa Fe–style" Santa Fe to have been. Taos seemed covered with a literal and figurative layer of dust that hinted at its grit and authenticity. Infatuations were common for me then, and I suspect Taos was another — ephemeral but intense, like the New Mexico light that has drawn artists for more than a century. I was hardly the first to fall under Taos's spell. Full story »
GETTING THERE Taos is about 70 miles north of Santa Fe and about 130 miles north of Albuquerque, which has the best air access from other Western cities. For more information, contact the Taos County Chamber of Commerce (800/732-8267).
WHERE TO STAY
Casa de las Chimeneas Inn & Spa Luxury B&B in a secluded 1930 compound within walking distance of the plaza. INFO: 8 rooms from $180, including breakfast and evening supper; 877/758-4777.
Hacienda del Sol A 200-year-old adobe turned B&B bordering Taos Pueblo. INFO: 11 rooms from $125, including breakfast; 866/333-4459.
WHERE TO EAT
The Adobe Bar Limited bar menu but eclectic live music nightly and stiff margaritas. INFO: $; in the Historic Taos Inn, 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; 505/758-2233.
Joseph's Table Blending New Mexican, French, and Asian influences, Joseph Wrede's cuisine is as artful as his lovely dining room. INFO: $$$$; in Hotel La Fonda de Taos, 108A South Taos Plaza; 505/751-4512.
 |
| Cedric Angeles |
| At Joseph's Table, enjoy chef Joseph Wrede's creative dishes such as lobster tamales topped with fresh trout roe. |
 |
|
Orlando's New Mexican Café A locals' favorite for its chiles and traditional dishes. INFO: $; 1114 Don Juan Valdez Lane; 505/751-1450. WHAT TO DO
D.H. Lawrence Forbidden Art Showings five times daily (10, noon, 2, 4, 6). INFO: $3; at Hotel La Fonda de Taos, 108 South Taos Plaza; 505/758-2211.
Ledoux Street With galleries like 203 Fine Art (203 Ledoux St.; 505/751-1262) and exhibits such as the outstanding historic and contemporary Taos collection at the Harwood Museum of Art (closed Mon; $8; 238 Ledoux; 505/758-9826), Ledoux is a low-key counterpart to Santa Fe's Canyon Road. Southwest of the plaza, between Camino de la Placita and Ranchitos Rd.
Mabel Dodge Luhan House Workshops (from $290 for two days) and docent-led tours (by appointment; $30) are available at this shrine to Taos's creative tradition. When workshops aren't in session, it also operates as a B&B (rooms from $95, including breakfast). INFO: Free self-guided tours daily; 240 Morada Lane; 800/846-2235.
 |
| Cedric Angeles |
| Historic Taos Pueblo, a living community more than 1,000 years old, is a must-see site.
|
|
|
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge Walk across the Rio Grande on the country's second-highest suspension bridge, then hike trails along the west rim. INFO: Free; on U.S. 64, 11 miles west of Taos; 505/758-8851. San Francisco de Asis Church One of New Mexico's most photographed churches. INFO: Visitors welcome 8:30–4 Mon–Sat and Sun mass; donation suggested; off State 68, 4 miles south of Taos; 505/758-2754.
Taos Fall Arts Festival The 33rd annual celebration offers a taste of the Taos arts scene. INFO: Sep 21–Oct 8; free; Taos Convention Center, 120 Civic Plaza Dr.; 505/758-5015.
Taos Pueblo The San Geronimo Church and the remains of its 17th-century predecessor are among the highlights of guided tours. You can also explore on your own, including numerous craft shops. INFO: $10 pueblo entrance fee, $5 camera fee, free tours daily; 505/758-1028.
Wild Rivers Recreation Area With 22 miles of trails, it offers the best hiking access into the Rio Grande Gorge. La Junta Point trail has dramatic views on a steep, 2.5-mile round-trip into the gorge. INFO: $3 per vehicle, camping from $5; on State 522, 12 miles south of State 378; 505/770-1600.
Find more to do in New Mexico »
ENLARGE IMAGE
