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Esterlina Vineyards in Anderson Valley
Emily Nathan
It's hard to leave Esterlina Vineyards, where the dizzying valley views and leisurely, appointment-only tastings seem designed for relaxation.
Escape to the Anderson Valley
Find wonderful wine, authentic farm stands, and much more in California's least known wine country

Driving down the winding, tree-canopied dirt road that leads to Lazy Creek Vineyards, you'd think we've taken the turnoff to some secret state park. Alders, oaks, madrones, and redwoods all crowd alongside and over the road, which bumps over three wooden bridges before emerging onto hilly vineyard vistas.

  ENLARGE IMAGE
Anderson Valley locator
The golden light of Indian summer filters through the trees and illuminates the dust kicked up by our car. It's a scene so pretty and peaceful that we're tempted to stop the car and get out for a walk — or a nap. But then we see 8-year-old Grey Chandler, whose parents, Josh and Mary Beth Chandler, own and run Lazy Creek, and our energy picks up. Full story »

GETTING THERE

From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 north to Cloverdale, then State 128 west toward Mendocino. Or take U.S. 101 toward Ukiah and State 253 to Boonville, which is about 28 miles north of Cloverdale.

Gowan
Emily Nathan
Gowan's Oak Tree has the best apple cider in the valley and applesauce sold by varietals.
WHAT TO DO

Esterlina Vineyards At the top of a dirt road. INFO: By appointment only; 1200 Holmes Ranch Rd., Philo; 707/895-2920.

Goldeneye Much more Napa than Anderson Valley (there’s a tasting fee!), but its garden and wine-and-food pairings are lovely. INFO: Tasting fee from $5; 9200 State 128, Philo; 800/208-0438.

Gowan’s Oak Tree Great fruit and cider. INFO: 6600 State 128 (about 3 miles northwest of Philo); 707/895-3353.

Hendy Woods State Park $6 day-use fee; 18599 Philo Greenwood Rd., Philo; 707/895-3141.

Lazy Creek Vineyards By appointment and whenever the gate is open; 4741 State 128, Philo; 707/895-3623.

Navarro Vineyards Good place to sample Anderson Valley varietals. INFO: 5601 State 128, Navarro; 800/437-9463.

Anderson Valley
Emily Nathan
Rooms at the Boonville Hotel have the same clean, country-chic, contemporary style as the hotel's popular restaurant.
Standish Wine Company 5101 State 128, Philo; 707/895-9213.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Boonville General Store Breakfast, lunch, and gourmet picnic fixings. INFO: $; off State 128 in Boonville; 707/895-9477.

The Boonville Hotel The valley’s best restaurant ($$$; closed Tue–Wed). Also 8 stylish rooms, plus 2 cottages. INFO: From $125; 707/895-2210.

Hendy Woods State Park Hardy types can camp ($20 per night) or stay in one of five no-frills cabins ($35 per night). INFO: 707/937-5804.

The Other Place Four cottages with kitchens, about 2 miles outside Boonville. INFO: From $140; 707/895-3979.

Philo Apple Farm Three cottages are often available mid-week, but weekends are usually reserved for cooking classes. Don’t miss the farmstand. Cottages from $200; 707/895-2461.

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Published: October 2007