The two of us are sitting at what feels very near the top of the world, with a picnic before us and the vast expanse of Silicon Valley far, far below. Munching on salads and sandwiches, we see beyond the chaparral-covered hillside to a valley of trees and office towers punctuated by the flat, hazy, blue stretch of San Francisco Bay and the red-roofed buildings of Stanford University.

The summer sun gives the hills an ethereal golden sheen. We shade our wineglasses under an umbrella. We wouldn't want to mar this moment by a single degree, since we've come to this mountain spot to pay homage to the world's best wine. Full story »

Vinocruz Go here for 170 wines from 60 Santa Cruz Mountains wineries. INFO: $9 tasting fee; 725 Front St., #101, Santa Cruz; 831/426-8466.

Wineries are listed from north to south.

Thomas Fogarty Winery In a glorious spot on Skyline Boulevard overlooking Silicon Valley, Thomas Fogarty is one of the few "uptown" Santa Cruz Mountains wineries — its namesake founder is a heart surgeon who invented a still widely used medical device. While some of Fogarty's best-known wines aren't grown in the region (including its Gewürztraminer, a popular go-to partner for Thai food), the estate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are. INFO: Closed Mon–Tue; tasting fee from $6; 19501 Skyline Blvd., Woodside; 650/851-6777.

Picchetti Winery A very short drive from civilization (just east of Ridge Vineyards), Picchetti represents another piece of California winemaking history. The Picchetti brothers built the place in 1896 (it's on the National Registry of Historic Places), had to forsake winemaking for general ranching during Prohibition, and finally sold their holdings in the 1960s. Leslie Pantling has put the wine back in these ranch buildings, and is even working a few acres of 100-plus-year-old Zinfandel vines. Picnic tables are available if you don't mind the peacocks. INFO: $5 tasting fee; 13100 Montebello Rd., Cupertino; 408/741-1310.

Ridge Vineyards This is the home of the Cabernet that beat out France's top Bordeaux — again — in the 2006 rematch of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. Paul Draper has been at the winemaking helm since 1969, advocating balance as opposed to huge fruit and alcohol levels. The winery's Lytton Springs tasting room, in the heart of Sonoma Zinfandel land, might be newer and cooler, but the Monte Bello facility is adjacent to what's arguably the best Cabernet vineyard in the world. INFO: Open Sat–Sun; $5 tasting fee; 17100 Montebello Rd., Cupertino; 408/867-3233.

Savannah-Chanelle Vineyards Tasting at the roomy, barnlike Savannah-Chanelle is an opportunity to compare Pinot Noirs from many of the major Pinot regions in the state — the Russian River Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley — as well as the estate around you. Located just above the town of Saratoga, it's an easy afternoon stop. INFO: $5 tasting fee; 23600 Congress Springs Rd. (State 9), Saratoga; 408/741-2934.

David Bruce Winery When many wine lovers think of Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir, they think of David Bruce. One of the pioneers here, Bruce founded his concrete winery in the trees in 1964 and now makes in the neighborhood of 60,000 cases a year. While his reputation rides on Pinot, he has always played with other grapes; try the Petite Sirah. INFO: No tasting fee; 21439 Bear Creek Rd., Los Gatos; 800/397-9972.

Byington Vineyard & Winery Up winding Bear Creek Road, Byington is worth visiting for the beauty of the place alone. Like most of the other larger producers here, Byington makes many of its wines from grapes grown outside the mountains. Try the estate dry rosé, which they were bottling long before it was all the rage. INFO: No tasting fee; 21850 Bear Creek Rd., Los Gatos; 408/354-1111.

Emily Nathan
Looking for some wine education? Visit the tasting room next to the 1890 schoolhouse at Burrell School Vineyards and Winery.

Hallcrest Vineyards Today's Hallcrest, in the little town of Felton, is the rebirth of a 1940s winery that helped put the Santa Cruz Mountains on the winemaking map. The tasting room is quaint, casual, and a little cluttered — there are also lovely spots for picnics. INFO: No tasting fee; 379 Felton Empire Rd., Felton; 831/335-4441.

Bonny Doon Vineyard The staff in this rustic retreat channels the refreshing lunacy and the complete lack of wine pretension of owner Randall Grahm. "Diverse" is an understatement when applied to Bonny Doon wines: The wild lineup is infinitely interesting, often eccentric, usually yummy, and, at its best, grand. The label art alone will hold your interest. Bring a picnic for lunch out back by beautiful Mill Creek. INFO: $5 tasting fee; 10 Pine Flat Rd., Santa Cruz; 831/425-4518.

Storrs Winery This industrial-park tasting room is a good place to try wines from a number of tucked-away places in the mountains, such as the Christie Vineyard Chardonnay. INFO: No tasting fee; Old Sash Mill, 303 Potrero St., #35, Santa Cruz; 831/458-5030.

Beauregard Vineyards Visit Beauregard's tasting room right on the wharf. Four generations have grown grapes in the nearby mountains; the last two are finally making them into wine and are perhaps the only winemakers to champion the tiny Ben Lomond AVA on their bottles. INFO: $10 tasting fee; 55B Municipal Wharf, Santa Cruz; 831/425-7777.

Soquel Vineyards One of the newest winery facilities in the hills above Santa Cruz, Soquel is linked to local family history: Two of its owners are Peter and Paul Bargetto of the Bargetto winery family, and its redwood doors are made from a 12,000-gallon tank their grandfather bought in the 1940s. While the Bargetto twins (along with partner Jon Morgan) have a vineyard in the works, their grapes are still primarily sourced from other places, including Napa and the Russian River Valley. INFO: Open Sat–Sun; no tasting fee; 8063 Glen Haven Rd., Soquel; 831/462-9045.

Bargetto Winery The Bargettos go way back — brothers Phillip and John bought their property in 1918. The third generation is in charge now. And while this tasting room tucked in a picturesque spot by a creek has been known for its interesting fruit wines (and a slightly eccentric mead), the focus has shifted to core Santa Cruz Mountains wine. Bargetto's Regan Estate Vineyard, for example, is a 40-acre plot that sits on a knoll overlooking Monterey Bay. The Chardonnay grapes that grow there like the cool climate. INFO: No tasting fee; 3535 N. Main St., Soquel; 831/475-2258 ext. 14.

Clos LaChance Winery For a huge change of pace from cozy mountain tasting rooms, drive south on U.S. 101 to San Martin and Clos LaChance. Technically outside the AVA, Clos LaChance makes quite a bit of Santa Cruz Mountains wine. In fact, owners Bill and Brenda Murphy got into the business with a backyard vineyard at their house in Saratoga. Here, they throw all the high-tech bells and whistles at growing and winemaking, which makes for lively tours. Everything about this place is grand: tasting room, terrace, lawn, views. Bring a picnic or order one ahead of time ($33); you can even get in some bocce ball or taste with your kids (they get sparkling cider). INFO: $5 tasting fee; 1 Hummingbird Lane, San Martin; 408/686-1050.

Emily Nathan
At Picchetti Winery, tasting-room manager Tom Small pours in the historic barn, where peacocks roam outside.

Big Basin Redwoods State Park This 20,000-acre shrine to the coast redwood is the oldest state park in California and one of the best: There are few easier — or prettier — places to see the tall trees. Camp or stay in a tent cabin. You can access the park from State 236 or from State 1 north of Santa Cruz. INFO: $6 per vehicle, tent cabins $50, campsites $25; 21600 Big Basin Way, Boulder Creek; 831/338-8860.

Capitola and Soquel Capitola is just what a California beach town should be: compact, walkable, blessed with a summery sense of history (some of its wooden cottages date from its days as a 19th-century resort), but still a good place for teens to show off tans and tattoos. Adjacent Soquel has a pleasing Main Street and three wineries. INFO: Capitola-Soquel Chamber of Commerce; 716-G Capitola Ave., Capitola; 831/475-6522.

Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District In between Skyline Boulevard's wineries, you'll notice signs for more than a dozen preserves: Windy Hill, Russian Ridge, and more. They're all beautiful, all are worth exploring, and many have good picnic areas. INFO: 650/691-1200.

Natural Bridges State Beach On the northern edge of Santa Cruz, this coast-hugging state park is famous for its tidepools and rocky coves and the swarms of monarch butterflies that gather in its eucalyptus groves October through February. INFO: $6 per vehicle; 2531 West Cliff Dr., Santa Cruz; 831/423-4609.

Roaring Camp Railroads Tourists have choo-choo'ed through the redwoods here since 1875. Today, Roaring Camp offers steam-train excursions through the trees as well as trips to and from the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. INFO: From $19, from $13 ages 3–12; in Felton; 831/335-4484.

Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk When considering what wine to pair with a corn dog and a spin on the Giant Dipper, you want an assertive red that — no, forget it. The Beach Boardwalk has nothing to do with wine. Nevertheless, this beachside fun zone is one of the nation's classic amusement parks — and that 80-year-old wooden Giant Dipper roller coaster is one of the best in the world. Eminently worth visiting if you're wine touring in the Santa Cruz area, especially if you have children in tow. INFO: 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz; 831/423-5590.

Santa Cruz, Downtown The city's heart, Pacific Avenue, has waxed and waned over the years. It got badly whacked by the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake but is now enjoying a genuine renaissance, its handsome buildings holding all sorts of college-town fun: movie theaters, good bookstores, funky/chic clothing stores, a bevy of restaurants, and enough coffee spots to launch a thousand term papers. INFO: Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz; 831/429-8433.

Seymour Marine Discovery Center at Long Marine Laboratory Run by UC Santa Cruz, this friendly facility is great fun for the kids and a fine place to discover the wonders of the Pacific. INFO: Closed Mon; $6, $4 ages 4–16; at end of Delaware Ave., Santa Cruz; 831/459-3800.

Shakespeare Santa Cruz If you're visiting mid-July through early September, you can't go wrong by attending one of this award-laden regional theater company's performances. Those held in the redwood forest–wrapped outdoor amphitheater are especially magical. INFO: From $29, $10 ages 18 and under; 1156 High St., Santa Cruz; 831/459-2159.

Surfing Santa Cruz has been wrestling with Huntington Beach for the title of Surf City USA for a decade — we're not going to get into that imbroglio. But this is a great place for novices to learn to surf, thanks to lessons given by wave gurus Richard Schmidt (Richard Schmidt Surf School: from $80; 831/423-0928) and Ed Guzman (Club Ed Surf School: from $85; 831/464-0177). And the city's surf museum (closed Tue, closed Tue–Wed after Sep 15; free; 701 W. Cliff Dr.; www.santacruzsurfingmuseum.org or 831/420-6289), housed in the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse above surf mecca Steamer Lane, is sweetly rad.

Wilder Ranch State Park A former dairy farm on the coast north of Santa Cruz, Wilder Ranch now offers great hiking and mountain biking on 34 miles of trails, not to mention glorious ocean views. INFO: $6 per vehicle; 1401 Old Coast Rd., Santa Cruz; 831/426-0505.

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Gabriella Sunset has dubbed this the most romantic spot to dine in Santa Cruz, and we stand by our judgment. The setting (a Mission-style building), the food (lovely salads, pastas, fish), and the wine all make this a great spot for a date, be it your first or your 500th. INFO: $$$; 910 Cedar St., Santa Cruz; 831/457-1677.

Gayle's Bakery and Rosticceria On any weekend, you'll see crowds lining up at this Capitola favorite, and for good reason. Sandwiches, pastas, and entrées (for takeout or to eat here) and phenomenal breads, pastries, and cakes — everything Gayle's makes is wonderful. INFO: $$; 504 Bay Ave., Capitola; 831/462-1200.

Manresa Chef David Kinch's restaurant vaulted Los Gatos from mere affluent Silicon Valley suburb to gourmet destination, as foodies (and food magazines) from around the world heaped praise on a menu that draws inspiration from France and Catalonia and its ingredients from the Santa Cruz Mountains. INFO: $$$$; closed Mon; 320 Village Lane, Los Gatos; 408/354-4330.

Pearl Alley Bistro The bistro has been in Santa Cruz for what seems like forever, but don't take it for granted. The menu, which changes seasonally but draws continued inspiration from local produce, is as adventuresome as it is appealing, and the intimate setting is a charmer. INFO: $$; 110 Pearl Alley, Santa Cruz; 831/429-8070.

Shadowbrook This elegant restaurant is famous for three things: a hillside/creekside location so dramatic you arrive via funicular railway; a savvy way with steak and fresh fish; and a phenomenal wine list (including numerous Santa Cruz Mountains vintages). INFO: $$; 1750 Wharf Rd., Capitola; 831/475-1511.

Soif Wine Bar & Merchants Just what downtown Santa Cruz needed: a chic wine bar with a great selection. The adjoining wine shop has good offerings too, including some otherwise hard-to-find local vintages. INFO: $$; 105 Walnut Ave., Santa Cruz; 831/423-2020.

Theo's Restaurant A French countryside cafe with a Soquel twist — only local, organic produce and sustainable meats and fish are served. INFO: $$$; closed Sun–Mon; 3101 N. Main St., Soquel; 831/462-3657.

Vino Locale Located across the street from Zibibbo in downtown Palo Alto, Vino Locale is a charming little cafe that also sells local wines, many from Santa Cruz Mountains wineries that lack tasting rooms of their own. INFO: $; closed Mon; 431 Kipling St., Palo Alto; 650/328-0450.

WHERE TO STAY

The Babbling Brook Inn Very Santa Cruz: beneath the redwood trees, a nest of brown-shingled cottages tidily arranged alongside the promised babbling brook, with lots of hidden decks and patios to relax on. Surprisingly, all this verdure is located on the edge of downtown, which makes for some traffic noise but easy access to good restaurants. INFO: 13 rooms from $169; 1025 Laurel St., Santa Cruz; 831/427-2437.

Costanoa If your spouse has never liked camping, take him/her here. On the coast 45 minutes north of Santa Cruz, this unique Pescadero resort has elegant tent cabins that can make a camping convert out of almost anybody — there are indoor rooms for die-hard urbanites. The Cascade Bar & Grille ($$), plus the wine and food offerings at Costanoa's General Store, will also help, as will the spa treatments. INFO: 39 lodge rooms (from $210), 12 cabins (from $185), 80 tent bungalows (from $115), and 15 tent sites (from $50); 650/879-1100.

Hotel Los Gatos A pleasing hotel in the middle of very appealing Los Gatos. INFO: 72 rooms from $249; 866/335-1700.

Inn at Depot Hill In Capitola, convenient to the beach and the wineries of nearby Soquel, this 1881 railroad depot that's been converted into a swank inn is one of the best B&Bs anywhere. All rooms are elegantly themed: the Portofino, the Kyoto, and so on. Wonderful breakfasts too. INFO: 12 rooms from $209; 800/572-2632 or 831/462-3376.

Click here to order California Wine Country: A Sunset Field Guide (Sunset Books, 2007; $20).