Foodies have been flocking to Washington state's Long Beach Peninsula for a long time. Ever since, in fact, Jimella Lucas and Nanci Main started coaxing exciting seafood dishes from their restaurant perched on the Nahcotta dock.
That was 20 years ago. Today, oysters are still caught in the peninsula's Willapa Bay, salmon is troll-caught just offshore, and cranberries and wild berries and mushrooms still flourish. So, naturally, when my friend Betsy and I started talking about a trip to the peninsula Betsy, who starts planning the next meal while we're forking up crumbs from this one our conversations focused on food. Full story »
GETTING THERE
The Long Beach Peninsula is about two hours by car from Portland, three and a half from Seattle. For more information on lodging, dining, and things to do, contact the Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau (www.funbeach.com or 800/451-2542).
WHAT TO DO
Cranberry Museum Call for hours; free; 2907 Pioneer Rd., Long Beach; www.cranberrymuseum.com; 360/642-5553.
Jack’s Country Store 26006 Pacific Hwy., Ocean Park; www.jackscountrystore.com; 888/665-4989.
Marsh's Free Museum 409 S. Pacific Ave., Long Beach; www.marshsfreemuseum.com; 360/642-2188.
Oysterville Sea Farms First and Clark Sts., Oysterville; www.willabay.com; 360/665-6585.
Wiegardt Studio Gallery Open Fri and Sat and by appointment; 2607 Bay Ave., Ocean Park; www.ericwiegardt.com; 360/665-5976.
WHERE TO EAT
The Ark Restaurant
& Bakery Its views of Willapa Bay can't be beat, and the dining room's '60s ambience remains part of the charm. $$$; call for hours; 3310 273rd St., Nahcotta; 360/665-4133.
Bailey's Bakery & Cafe Settle in at one of five tables in the town's old mercantile for a sandwich, cookies, or Sunday mornings a sticky "thunder bun." $; closed Tue–Wed;
26910 Sandridge Rd., Nahcotta; 360/665-4449.
The Depot Restaurant Seaview's 1905 railroad depot now dishes out memorable dinners. Both the wine and beer list and the entrées include local favorites and international flavors, from Thai
calamari to Willapa Bay oyster fry. $$$; closed Mon–Tue; 1208 38th St., Seaview; 360/642-7880.
42nd Street Café Cheerful diner decor and a menu bringing out the best in comfort-food favorites, from Cajun-fried oysters
to pork chops with cranberry barbecue sauce, help make this
a local favorite. $$$; 4201 Pacific Way, Seaview; 360/642-2323.
Jimella's Seafood Market The new enterprise from the former owner-chefs of the Ark. Get fresh or smoked fish, local shellfish, homemade sauces, and fine cheeses and wine to go, or sit down to enjoy a bowl of chowder. $; closed Mon; 21712 Pacific Way, Klipsan Beach; 360/665-4847.
WHERE TO STAY
Caswell's on the Bay A romantic B&B in a Queen Anne house in Oyster Park, Caswell's offers five rooms with private baths, antique furnishings and fine linens, and nonstop bay views. Rooms from $160 (including full breakfast with oysters); www.caswellsinn.com; 360/665-6535.
Inn at Discovery Coast All nine rooms in this Long Beach inn face the sea (best views are from the third floor) and have gas fireplaces; corner rooms have jetted tubs. Rooms from $95 (including breakfast); www.innatdiscoverycoast.com; 866/843-5782.
Moby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm Bunkerlike outside but funky and fun inside, this 1930s hotel in Nahcotta has nine rooms, some with private baths, and plenty of bohemian charm. Warm up in the Japanese sauna in the woods; in the attached restaurant ($$$; call for hours), enjoy a fine meal featuring oysters from the hotel's own oyster farm. Rooms from $90 (including full breakfast with oysters); www.mobydickhotel.com; 800/673-6145.
Shelburne Inn The gracious green gabled 1896 inn in Seaview is stuffed with antiques. All 15 guest rooms have private baths with tiled shower or clawfoot tub. Ask about the owners' private cottage and guest rooms at nearby China Beach (rooms from $199; 360/642-5660). The inn's Shoalwater Restaurant ($$$; 360/642-4142) has
a deservedly fine reputation for its service, extensive wine list, and exquisitely prepared food. Rooms from $135; www.shelburneinn.com; 800/466-1896.
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