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Earthbound Farm
Emily Nathan
Fresh herbs and flowers signal spring's arrival at Earthbound Farm.
Captivating Carmel Valley
Enjoy the simple pleasures of the country on California's Central Coast

The first glimpse of Carmel Valley will leave you sighing for more. You drive a few miles inland from the central California coast, following a two-lane country road that carries you up a small rise.

Suddenly the view opens up below: tidy farms; broad, grassy horse pastures; and spring green, oak-covered hills, unfolding in layers to both sides. Add a crisp, gray-blue sky and bright yellow mustard to the mix, and you've got a palette worthy of Monet.

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GETTING THERE

Carmel Valley begins a mile inland from Carmel-by-the-Sea, 2 1/2 hours south of San Francisco. Carmel Valley Road winds east through the valley from the ocean; it's the only road you need to know to navigate the area. The shops and restaurants of Carmel Valley Village are 12 miles inland from State 1.

Cafe Rustica
Emily Nathan
Wood-fired pizza at Cafe Rustica.

WHERE TO EAT

Café Rustica Some of Carmel's best food is found at this casual spot in the village. Salads, pastas, and wood-fired pizzas with a perfectly crisp, thin crust. $$$; closed Mon; 10 Del Fino Place; 831/659-4444.

Corkscrew Café In Carmel Valley Village, a French brasserie decorated in warm, sunny-hued colors, adjoining the Georis Winery. Try the mussels. $$; closed Thu; 55 W. Carmel Valley Rd.; 831/659-8888.

Will's Fargo An Old California steakhouse and saloon popular with locals, right in the village. $$$$; 16 W. Carmel Valley Rd.; 831/659-2774.

WHAT TO DO

Earthbound Farm Wander the labyrinth, snip your own herbs, and buy organic flowers and veggies direct from the source. Cooking demos, bug walks, and other activities too; special Earth Day celebration on April 21. 7250 Carmel Valley Rd. (31/2 miles east of State 1); www.ebfarm.com; 831/625-6219.

Garland Ranch Regional Park The 1.4-mile Lupine Loop is our favorite easy outing. On Carmel Valley Rd. (81/2 miles east of State 1); www.mprpd.org; 831/659-4488.

Georis Winery In the village, taste wine in the wisteria-covered courtyard listening to chirps from the aviary. Tasting fee from $15 per flight; 4 Pilot Rd.; www.georiswine.com; 831/659-1050.

Griggs Nursery Carmel Valley More than 2 acres of water fountains, pottery, houseplants, and ornamental and bedding plants. 9220 Carmel Valley Rd. (5 miles east of State 1); 831/626-0680.

Heller Estate Organic Vineyards In the village, locally grown organic wines and a sculpture garden. $5 tasting fee (waived with 2-bottle purchase); 69 W. Carmel Valley Rd.; www.hellerestate.com; 831/659-6220.

Valley Hills Nursery Specializes in California and Australia natives, as well as ornamental grasses, fruit trees, and organic vegetables. Stoneware and Italian pottery too. 7440 Carmel Valley Rd. (31/2 miles east of State 1); www.valleyhillsnursery.com; 831/624-3482.

Carmel Valley Shop
Emily Nathan
Kim3 International Furnishings brings a bit of Bali to California.

WHERE TO SHOP

FezQ Succulents, grasses, and other Mediterranean landscape plants, plus boldly colored outdoor sculpture and sophisticated gifts. Closed Mon–Tue; 28 W. Carmel Valley Rd.; 831/659-1268.

Kim3 International Furnishings Huge thatched pagodas, oil jugs, marble basins, and other Bali- and Asia-inspired garden accessories. Closed Mon; 25 Pilot Rd.; 831/659-1360.

Pot Farm Bright Mexican tiles, scrolled ironwork, garden furniture, and a great selection of containers. Open daily, weather permitting; 8 Pilot Rd.; 831/659-1564.

WHERE TO STAY

Bernardus Lodge Provence comes to the Central Coast, with luxurious French country–style rooms and rambling lavender gardens set among rolling vineyards. Home to the excellent Marinus restaurant ($$$$). 57 rooms with fireplaces and patios from $275; www.bernardus.com; 831/658-3400.

Carmel Valley Ranch High-end golf resort on 400 prime acres near Garland Ranch Regional Park. Spot wild quail and deer on the lawns. 144 suites from $159; www.carmelvalleyranch.com; 866/282-4745.

Los Laureles Lodge White buildings and period-style rooms beneath old-growth oaks. The rooms along Surrey Lane are the best choice. 31 rooms from $79; www.loslaureles.com; 831/659-2233.


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Published: April 2007