James Marshall
Pine Butte Guest Ranch cookout

We celebrate the farthest point of our journey at the Glacier Park Lodge. In the restaurant near Two Medicine Creek, we choose from Kootenai, Piegan, or Blackfeet Indian tacos. Afterward, I line up my children and snap pictures of them next to one of the lobby's 60 Douglas firs. Then we drive back over the mountains, dreaming of maiasaura dinosaurs, Indian ponies, and, of course, Taylor and Bob.

Drive Montana's backroads

The road from Missoula to East Glacier Park follows State 200 east, then heads north on U.S. 287 and U.S. 89. For information contact the Russell Country tourism office (www.russell.visitmt.com or 800/527-5348) or the Choteau Chamber of Commerce (800/823-3866).

JJJ Wilderness Ranch. Dude-ranch vacations and horse-pack trips. 6 cabins; $1,345 for six nights, including meals and activities. On Gibson Reservoir Rd., 25 miles west of Augusta; www.triplejranch.com or 406/562-3653.

Mel's Diner. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 1 Main St., Augusta; 406/562-3408.

Latigo & Lace. Regional art, books, and handcrafted gifts. 124 Main, Augusta; 406/562-3665.

Viewforth. Two-room Craftsman bungalow with Victorian gardens. $85 per night. 4600 U.S. 287, 7 miles north of Augusta; www.viewforth.com or 406/467-3884.

Log Cabin Café. $$; breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tue-Sun, reservations recommended. 102 S. Main Ave., Choteau; 406/466-2888.

Antler Bar. 105 N. Main, Choteau; 406/466-2719.

The Old Trail Museum. $3. 823 N. Main, Choteau; 406/466-5332.

Seven Lazy P, Deep Canyon Guest Ranch. Horseback riding and pack trips. 9 cabins; $185 per night (four-night minimum) or $1,170 per week, including meals and activities. 3450 Teton Canyon Rd., 25 miles west of Choteau; www.sevenlazyp.com or 406/466-2044.

James Marshall
Riding and lodging at JJJ Wilderness Ranch

The Nature Conservancy's Pine Butte Guest Ranch. Natural-history workshops. 10 cabins; $1,400 per week, including meals and activities. On Teton Canyon Rd., 27 miles west of Choteau; 406/466-2158.

Two Medicine Dinosaur Center. Dinosaur history and models. $3, hands-on dinosaur programs from $35. On U.S. 89 in Bynum; www.tmdinosaur.org or 800/238-6873.

Museum of the Plains Indian. Clothing and arts of the Northern Plains tribes. $4. U.S. 89 at U.S. 2 in Browning; 406/338-2230.

Lodgepole Gallery and Tipi Village. 10 tepees from $45. U.S. 89 at Durham Rd., 2 miles north of Browning; www.blackfeetculturecamp.com or 406/338-2787.

Glacier Park Lodge. Stately 1913 log lodge. 161 rooms from $129. 1 Midvale Lane (off U.S. 2), East Glacier Park; www.bigtreehotel.com or 406/892-2525.