BERKELEY
Caf[SPECIAL_CHAR {233}] Rouge. Those in the know come here not only for the stylish menu and excellent charcuterie but also for the glistening raw bar. At least five varieties are served fresh daily, along with chilled cooked prawns and seasonal crayfish. $$$. 1782 Fourth St.; 510/525-1440.

HEALDSBURG
Willi's Seafood & Raw Bar. Sample choice oysters and other chilled crustaceans over a good strong drink. But don't stop there; the wine list and small-plates menu (try the hamachi ceviche) are well worth a look too. $$$; closed Tue. 403 Healdsburg Ave.; 707/433-9191.

OAKLAND
Pearl Oyster Bar & Restaurant. Rockridge's newest late-night hangout draws a crowd as cool as its decor, but the chef's for real. Try the oyster sampler or dishes like spicy raw tuna poke and Maine peekytoe crab cakes. $$$; closed Sun. 5634 College Ave.; 510/654-5426.

SACRAMENTO
Black Pearl Restaurant and Oyster Bar. Exposed brick walls and fun cocktails add up to a stylish night out at this midtown bar and restaurant. Go for clams on the half-shell, the seafood platter, or shrimp cocktail with peppery sprouts. $$. 2724 J St.; 916/440-0214.

SAN FRANCISCO
Hog Island Oyster Company. Inside, the bar is bustling and urbane; outside, it's serene at the water's edge. Suggested combinations might include 12 Sweetwater oysters with a glass of Muscadet. $$. Ferry Building, on the Embarcadero; 415/391-7117.