Creative signs divert traffic for staged gunfights and a recreated shooting of Wild Bill. In summer the poker-playing Hickock meets his match daily at 1, 3, 5 and 7 p.m. at Saloon No. 10, 567 Main St. (605/578-3446).

Upstairs from the saloon, the Deadwood Social Club serves sophisticated Italian dishes and boasts a notably good wine list.

Next: Pan for gold.