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Ask Chef Andy Wai what the Chinese value about Cantonese cuisine, and he'll tell you it's how the taste of fresh ingredients always shines through. "Original flavor," he says. "You can see it in the color and presentation, smell and taste it." Steaming is one technique that helps preserve that flavor.

Wai knows what he's talking about. Trained in classic Chinese and Western cuisines in Hong Kong, he came to the United States in 1988 to work for San Francisco's Harbor Village restaurant, where he was the executive chef from 1992 to 2005. Now he has his own spacious, light-filled restaurant, Chef Wai, in downtown San Mateo, 20 miles south of San Francisco.

Tucked into one end of the kitchen is a stainless steel cabinet constantly filled with clouds of steam. He pulls open the door and slides in a plate with fish and tofu. Nearby, a stack of giant round metal baskets sits atop billowing jets of steam. He uses both constantly. "In the last few years, organic ingredients, healthy foods, and less grease are very popular," Wai explains. "Steaming works well with this healthful style. It's easy and uses little oil."

Annabelle Breakey
Steamed Fish on Soft Tofu with Black-bean Sauce

In a matter of minutes, Wai creates a pretty dish of kabocha squash and scallops, and then fish on tender tofu. Eat these homestyle favorites as the Chinese do, with a bowl of hot rice and stir-fried greens. It's a simple, good-for-you meal.

INFO: Chef Wai ($$; 111 E. Fourth Ave., San Mateo, CA; 650/342-8388)

RECIPES

Steamed Fish on Soft Tofu with Black-bean Sauce
Pieces of fish coated with pungent black-bean garlic sauce steam atop melt-in-your-mouth tofu pedestals.

Steamed Kabocha Squash with Scallops
Bright orange kabocha squash forms a sweet base for tender scallops, spiked with ginger and chile. The dish is also very good as a vegetarian version, without the scallops.

HOW TO STEAM BOK CHOY

If you have stackable bamboo or metal steamer baskets, try cooking some sweet green bok choy along with your main course. Here's how: Cut baby bok choy lengthwise in half (if using regular bok choy, cut into 1-in.-wide pieces), then put in a heat-resistant glass pie pan and set pan in steamer basket over boiling water. Steam 6 to 8 minutes or until tender when pierced with a knife. Turn off heat and lift pie pan from steamer. Drizzle bok choy with 2 tbsp. oyster sauce mixed with 1 tbsp. toasted sesame oil if you like, and serve immediately.

STEAMING TIPS

David Fenton	Use the right dish Make it 1 in. smaller than the steamer-basket width. A Pyrex pie pan works well.
David Fenton	Watch the water If water evaporates before food is done, just add more boiling water.
David Fenton	Remove food carefully Use a spatula to lift out dish, aided with a pot holder. If using metal or bamboo steamers, you can lift basket out of hot water first and set on counter.
David Fenton	Lift with strings Cut 2 pieces (4 times dish's width) of string. Align strings; tie knot in center. Spread out into an X and set dish on top. Bring ends over dish and tie knot above; use to lift plate out.

All you need is a vessel to hold water, a rack to suspend the food over the water, and a lid to keep the steam in. Here are some possible combinations.

Rob D. Brodman	Wok and rack A 14- to 16-in. wok with a domed lid and steamer rack or a round cake rack. Set wok on a ring if it wobbles. Put rack right in wok; the sloped sides will hold the rack over the water. The wide opening makes it relatively easy to remove the cooked dish. Woks run from $15 to $150 or more, and are widely available.
Rob D. Brodman	Bamboo steamer Chinese stackable bamboo steamer baskets with lids. Set a 10- to 12-in. basket right in a 14- to 16-in. wok (make sure the bottom rim is just covered by water, as the baskets scorch easily; add boiling water as needed). Layer baskets to cook more than one dish. Bamboo steamers are generally $15 to $20 and are widely available.
Rob D. Brodman	Metal steamer Chinese steamer pan topped with stackable baskets and a domed lid. Choose a 10- to 12-in.-wide steamer for greatest versatility. Stackable baskets can cook several dishes at a time. Metal steamers cost from $30 to $35 and may be found at Asian markets.
Rob D. Brodman	Western-style A deep, wide pan or kettle with a lid, a round cake rack, and 3 empty cans. Set 2- to 3-in.-tall cans (both ends removed) into pan (or use the removable rim of a cheesecake pan). Top with a round cake rack and place pie pan on it; cover to steam.