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Lots of latkes
Leo Gong
Latkes take center stage at a Hanukkah party.
Light and crispy latkes
Four versions of deliciously fried potato pancakes take center stage at a simple Hanukkah dinner

Classic Potato Latkes

Sweet Potato-Parsnip Latkes

Gingered Sour Cream

Herbed Yukon Gold Potato Latkes

Cheese Latkes

Make your own menorah

When I first began celebrating Hanukkah with my husband, Scott, seven years ago, I marveled at a holiday that promoted eating fried foods as a religious duty. I happily rolled up my sleeves to help him throw his annual latke party, grating potatoes, stirring in eggs and matzo meal, and making batches of homemade applesauce to serve alongside.

Over time, as our party grew, we learned some crucial tricks to making the operation more manageable, like frying the latkes a day ahead and recrisping them in the oven so the house doesn’t smell like grease when guests arrive. We learned how to make lighter, crispier latkes by extracting as much water as possible from the potatoes before cooking. And we learned to keep the menu simple because, really, everyone comes for the fried food (we estimate 6 to 8 latkes per person to guarantee leftovers). With some cookies and a fruit salad, the menu is complete.

Lots of latkes
Leo Gong
Classic potato latkes with sour cream and applesauce
In recent years, as Hanukkah has become my holiday too, I’ve come to relish it as more than just a feast. Lighting the candles and saying the prayers during the darkest time of the year is a profoundly peaceful moment, an island of calm in the holiday chaos. But, truth be told, the latkes are still my favorite part.

Tips for terrific latkes

• Soaking, rinsing, and drying the grated potatoes removes excess starch and makes the latkes crispy (not necessary for sweet potatoes).

• Use restraint when adding eggs and matzo meal. Too much will make the latkes heavy.

• Keep oil between 300° and 350° while frying to prevent latkes from turning greasy. Check heat with a candy thermometer and adjust heat accordingly.

• If making latkes ahead, let cool on paper towels, then arrange in a single layer in a zip-lock plastic bag and refrigerate up to 3 days. Reheat in a 300° oven until crispy and hot, about 15 minutes.

Published: December 2006