(We list its bottle prices, which may vary elsewhere.)

Fess Parker Viognier 2002 (Santa Barbara County), $19. When Fess traded the coonskin cap for a corkscrew, it was good news for wine lovers. This lovely Viognier, with waves of gorgeous flowers, exotic citrus, and vanilla, makes an out-of-the-ordinary aperitif.

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2003 (Napa Valley), $12. Before the Chardonnay boom, Chenin Blanc was the West's most-planted white grape. This wine, with tasty fresh apple flavors, proves why.

David Bruce Petite Syrah 2003 (Paso Robles, CA), $16. If you like intense, muscular wines, don't miss this Petite Sirah (which isn't petite in any way whatsoever).

Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir 2002 (Santa Maria Valley, CA), $33. Think lamb or duck. Chef Frank Ostini, owner of the Hitching Post restaurant, is co-owner of this winery, which produces some of the most nuanced Pinot Noirs in California.

Sunset's Wine Club