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San Juan Island

Lawrence Cheek,

With nearly 6,500 residents, this is the most populous of thechain, with the greatest number of inns and restaurants. FridayHarbor is the county seat of San Juan County.

KAYAKING

Crystal Seas Kayaking (877/732-7877 or www.crystalseas.com), San Juan Safaris (800/450-6858 or www.sanjuansafaris.com),and Sea Quest Kayak Expeditions (888/589-4253 or ) offerhalf-day or day-long guided tours. San Juan Kayak Expeditions (from $325; 360/378-4436 or www.sanjuankayak.com) runsthree- and four-day trips.

WHALE-WATCHING

Companies running trips out of Friday Harbor include San Juan Excursions (800/809-4253 or www.watchwhales.com) and Bon Accord Charters (800/677-0751 or www.go-whale-watching.com).For more, visit www.nwwhalewatchers.org.

DINING

Downriggers. Nautical decor, great harbor view, appropriateseafood menu. 10 Front St., Friday Harbor; (360) 378-2700.

Friday Harbor House. Menu features Northwest seafood andwines. 130 West St., Friday Harbor; (360) 378-8455 or www.fridayharborhouse.com.

Vinny’s. First-rate Italian food. 165 West St., FridayHarbor; (360) 378-1934.

LODGING

Argyle House. A graceful B&B in a 1910 Craftsman house.Three rooms, a suite, and a private cottage; superb breakfasts.From $125. 685 Argyle Ave., Friday Harbor; (360) 378-4084 or www.argylehouse.net.

Friday Harbor House. Sleek Northwestern architecture, harborviews, and an excellent restaurant (breakfast included with theroom) are the hallmarks of this 20-room inn. From $200 in summer.See “Dining” above.

Roche Harbor Resort. This historic waterfront villagestarted as a lime quarry in the 1880s. The least expensive rooms inthe 1886 Hotel de Haro are small and lack private baths, but thereare more luxurious accommodations on the property. From $79. 248Reuben Memorial Dr., Roche Harbor; (360) 378-2155.