California’s Lost Coast Is an Untamed Paradise—These Are Its Most Stunning Sights
The trees are taller. The beaches are wider. And there’s no one here but you. Here’s how to get lost on California’s last stretch of untamed coast.
Daniel Duane and Andrea Minarcek
Please note that some businesses and attractions may be closed or operating at reduced capacity due to COVID-19 concerns. Be sure to call ahead before visiting.
1 /24 Erin Kunkel Moonstone Beach
Gorgeous views of rocky coves and headlands grace this beach, located south of the town of Trinidad.
2 /24 Erin Kunkel Moonstone Beach at sunset
Sunset casts an orange glow on the outcroppings at Moonstone Beach.
3 /24 Erin Kunkel Trinidad
Fishing and recreational boats dock in the shallow waters just offshore, near the town of Trinidad.
4 /24 Erin Kunkel Coastal cliffs
Walking paths and overlooks provide vantage points of the Pacific on the coastal cliffs near Trinidad.
5 /24 Erin Kunkel Trinidad State Beach
A scenic stretch of sand just north of Trinidad, this beach offers tidepools to explore and coves for gentle swimming.
6 /24 Erin Kunkel Black Sands Beach
You’ll see more wildlife than people on Black Sands Beach. The 4-mile hike from the parking lot up to Horse Mountain Creek and back is a good way to take in the views.
7 /24 Erin Kunkel Redwood National Park
Redwood National Park boasts some of the largest coastal redwoods in the West. Free; nps.gov/redw.
8 /24 Erin Kunkel Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
Redwood National Park is great, but nearby Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park might just trump it in grandeur. The moderate 2.2-mile Foothill Trail gives you an eyeful of the giants, including the aptly named Big Tree, a 286-foot-tall, 23.5-foot-wide behemoth estimated to be 1,500 years old.
Free; parksca.gov. 9 /24 Erin Kunkel Mal Coombs Park
The short Cape Mendocino Lighthouse stands above Mal Coombs Park, home to tidepools, and a great place for spotting seals and the occasional gray whale.
10 /24 Erin Kunkel Shelter Cove Road
Highway 1 was meant to hug the whole California coast, but an 80-mile stretch above Fort Bragg was too rugged to tame. The Lost Coast is Big Sur on steroids: Jagged peaks loom at the Pacific’s edge, with old-growth forests and beaches in between. Just 22 miles, Shelter Cove Road cuts through the thick of it. But budget at least an hour for the slow, winding drive.
11 /24 Erin Kunkel Benbow Historic Inn
Please note that the in is closed through at least mid-January 2021 due to COVID-19 concerns. Work your way to Garberville and the Benbow Historic Inn, a 1926 Tudor-style mansion shaded by redwoods, with guest rooms overlooking the Eel River and a fireplace-warmed bar with a fat wine list.
From $99; benbowinn.com. 12 /24 Erin Kunkel Ferndale's Main Street
The town of Ferndale (pictured: its charming Main Street) is populated with Victorian homes, including the Gingerbread Mansion, an 1894 residence turned B&B. From $165; gingerbread-mansion.com.
13 /24 Erin Kunkel Ferndale architecture
The town of Ferndale is famous for its Victorian-era architecture, including these two homes on Berding Street, alongside the Assumption Catholic Church in the background.
14 /24 Erin Kunkel Artisan Alley
Ferndale resident Bruce Keller throws a tea bowl on a vintage kick wheel in the sculpture and kiln yard of Artisan Alley, a quiet lane of artist studios and shops.
15 /24 Erin Kunkel Hotel Ivanhoe saloon
The saloon at Hotel Ivanhoe has been a mainstay on Ferndale’s Main Street since the 1870s. Today, the bar hosts live music every Thursday from 6 to 9 p.m.
16 /24 Erin Kunkel Larrupin’ Café
In the small town of Trinidad, The Larrupin’ Café is where you eat when you want to wear your best flannel shirt. There’s live jazz some nights, deep scarlet painted walls, and a meat-first menu that makes space for the house special beef brisket, which is mesquite-smoked for 36 hours, then seared with house spices.
$$$; 1658 Patrick’s Point Dr., Trinidad; larrupin.com. 17 /24 Erin Kunkel Fern Canyon
Entering Fern Canyon is like stepping inside a giant terrarium. The half-mile-long trail is perfectly green and symmetric: five-finger, sword, and chain ferns carpet every inch of the 50-foot-high canyon walls, with yellow monkey flower poking through. Says Jan Wortman, owner of the nearby Historic Requa Inn, “It feels like Jurassic Park.” $8; redwoods.info.
18 /24 Erin Kunkel Oyster Beach cabin interior
Oyster Beach has three stylish cabins; the newest has an outdoor aluminum soaking tub. Right on the water, boat-in-only campsites in Humboldt Lagoons State Park. Rent your ride at Kayak Zak’s for the one-hour paddle in.
Oyster: From $250; redwoodcoastvacationrentals.com. Humboldt Lagoons: Camping $20, parks.ca.gov. 19 /24 Erin Kunkel Oyster Beach cabin exterior
The Mid-Century Waterfront cabin at Oyster Beach has a private firepit just 30 feet from the bay.
20 /24 Erin Kunkel Gold Bluffs Beach
Gold Bluffs Beach is one of the best spots on the coast to see herds of wild Roosevelt elk. In September, you can hear the 1,100-pound males bugling and clashing antlers to attract female partners. Keep your distance (200 feet, at least). In autumn, elk are looking to get up close and personal. Just not with you. $8 day-use fee; redwoods.info.
21 /24 Erin Kunkel Shelter Cove
The forested King Range collides with the Pacific at Shelter Cove, a tiny coastal community (pop. 693) in Humboldt County.
22 /24 Erin Kunkel Shelter Cove fishermen
Anglers can reel in Pacific halibut, albacore, salmon, and rockfish on the rocky headlands near Shelter Cove.
23 /24 Erin Kunkel Humboldt Bay Oyster Tour
Aqua Rodeo Farms and Humboldt Bay Oyster Tour owner Sebastian Elrite captains a motorboat on tour in Humboldt Bay, between Arcata and Eureka.
24 /24 Erin Kunkel Humboldt Bay Tourism Center
Fresh Pacific Bucksport oysters are served broiled or raw, on rock salt, along with local cheese, wine, and bread, at the Humboldt Bay Tourism Center, in Eureka.