With the zeal of politicians, some people insist that cornbread should be dense and straightforward, with a modicum of sweetness. Others find virtue in the tenderness and rich browning that a little more sugar gives the bread. Once you’ve cast your vote, savory or sweet is but a steppingstone to further adventures with this simple stir-and-bake quick bread. Vary the forms of cornmeal, from stone-ground to polenta, for a surprising range of flavors and textures. Then use herbs, spices, chilies, and cheeses to add even more personality. Note: At high altitudes, cornbreads with additions that increase the moisture content, such as the “double red” and basil-parmesan recipes below, may take 15 to 20 minutes longer to bake.
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