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Gruet Blanc de Noirs (New Mexico; $14). Dancing with wild strawberries, bright cherries, and creamy citrus, with a puckery edge of grapefruit and intriguing herbs.
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs (Carneros; $20). A little dark and loamy under red fruit spiked with zesty citrus.
Iron Horse “Wedding Cuvée” 2006 (Green Valley of Russian River Valley; $38). An effervescent mix of green apple, grapefruit, and tart red fruit—even hints of cranberry—softened by pear and a gentle yeastiness.