Sushi and wine: Crab roll

The wine: Grüner Veltliner

Pairing hint: With sweet crab, the citrus in “Grüner” (a new immigrant Austrian grape) turns to gorgeous lime, and all of its aromatics make a showing.

Our pick: Chehalem 2009 Grüner Veltliner (Ribbon Ridge; $19). Juicy apple carries lemon, grapefruit, and herbs under a layer of haunting jasmine.