Sushi and wine: Spicy tuna roll

The wine: Very barely off-dry Riesling

Pairing hint: You need a big-bodied white for the meaty fish. Riesling is mouth filling, with sweet stone fruit to stand up to the spice and a mineral edge that loves the brininess of nori.

Our pick: Dashe 2009 McFadden Farm Dry Riesling (Potter Valley; $20). Bright stone fruit, pink grapefruit, and guava wrapped in jasmine.