Brown Cannon III
During its 30-year run, Bay Wolf in Oakland, California, has become known more than any other restaurant for one ingredient and one wine: duck and Pinot Noir.
Cofounder Michael Wild pairs the wine through the year with duck and seasonal partners: In the summer, duck appears with a Pinot sauce and berries; in the fall, it's Gravensteins and celery root; in winter, turnips and their greens; and in the spring, radishes sautéed in a little butter and lemon juice.
Wild's mushroom tartlets and duck with bitter greens, which we've adapted from his Bay Wolf Restaurant Cookbook, are our new favorite fall Pinot partners.
Pick a Pinot Noir with earthy loam and mushroom notes to echo the mushrooms in the tarts.
A Pinot with both minerals and good fruit will bring out the best in the greens.