With Geyser Peak “Block Collection” River Road Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Good Value White of the Year (Russian River Valley; $21)

Perfect pairing:  Fennel-crusted Trout with Lemon-Ginger Vinaigrette

Why it works:  Sauvignon Blanc has an underpinning of herbs and flintiness that fennel has a special link to.

On top of that, though, this Sauvignon Blanc has an exotic layer of gooseberry and litchi fruit that we’ve matched here with ginger and raisins, and enough beautiful, lemony acidity to stand up to the wine challenge of a vinaiger-based sauce.