Worldly fish

Salmon Moqueca

The obstacle to preparing moqueca, Brazil's great fish stew, has been one of its most characteristic ingredients: dendé, a red palm oil. Prone to rancidity, it's rarely at its best by the time it travels here. However, Joao Victor Barbosa of Joao's Restaurant in Santa Clara, California, captures remarkably authentic moqueca flavor, sans dendê, in this simple version made with a fillet of salmon.