Start a cellar

WINES FOR ANY COLLECTION

Dinner party go-to's

•  Brander "Uno Mas" 2006 Grenache Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley; $22). The classic racy lime and grapefruit of Sauvignon Blanc are softened just a tad with the orange-peel aromas of Grenache Blanc.

•  Stoller Pinot Noir 2004 (Dundee Hills; $40). Dense and woodsy, with deep red berry and cherry flavors and hints of rose petals.

Discovery to share

•  Amavi Les Collines Vineyard Syrah 2005 (Walla Walla Valley; $32). Blueberries and bacon, sweet pipe tobacco, and intriguing floral notes.

For celebrating

•  Roederer "L'Ermitage" Brut 2000 (Anderson Valley; $48). Soft peach, zesty lime, and elegant bubbles.

Serious Cab for aging

•  Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Napa Valley; $70). Layers of cherries, cassis, cocoa, spice, and silky tannins, with a moderate alcohol level.