Long ago in Mozart's birthplace, I tasted the city's most famous dessert, Salzburger nockerln. The puffy baked eggs, simply served with whipped cream, sounded so easy to make that I tucked away an approximate formula in my head: separate the eggs and use 1 tablespoon of sugar for each white and 1 teaspoon of flour for each yolk. Whip them separately, fold together, and bake. At home I embellish the idea but not the process. The result is golden and velvety, like a sun-drenched cloud ― a stellar main dish for brunch.