"You need more meat on your bones," Mom used to say. And chefs today seem to understand the hidden comfort in that reproof; they're boldly serving the homiest meat dishes of all ― stews on the bone ― in the finest places.
The slow-braised lamb shanks and short ribs we've tasted in restaurants lately have inspired us to follow suit. But chefs generally have a battery of prep cooks, stock pots, and stovetop burners to enlist in chopping vegetables, browning meats, and straining sauces ― to say nothing of a dishwasher to clean up the mess afterward.
We've confined the whole process, in most cases, to one pan and one oven, for satisfying flavor that doesn't consign Mom (or Dad) to the kitchen all day.