How to bake whole-wheat bread

Making true whole-wheat bread

A bread that's 100 percent whole-grain can be dense and dry, but this one, by Lorrette Patzwald, who works with Ponsford's Place in San Rafael, California, is a revelation—moist and springy, with amazing depth of flavor. She starts by soaking some coarse grains to give the bread texture. Patzwald's secret for working with local flours, which aren’t as predictable as supermarket flours, is to let your eyes and sense of touch—not just measurements—guide you along. Her directions tell you how.

The recipe that follows makes one loaf (1 lb., 14 oz.) and takes 3 hours, plus 4 hours to stand and cool. You'll need:

For the soaker

• 5 tsp. coarse whole-grain polenta or corn grits*
• 3 tbsp. bulgur wheat

• About 3 1/2 cups whole-wheat bread flour such as hard red, hard white, or Red Fife
• 1 3/4 tsp. instant yeast such as RapidRise
• 1 3/4 tsp. fine sea salt
• About 2 tbsp. olive oil or grapeseed oil
• 1 tsp. melted butter