Of Marco Polo and spinach

A dish with varied influences
JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO

Spinach with Lemon and Currants

The epicenter of ancient trade routes, Venice retains a complex array of fragrances and flavors in its cuisine. In my imagination, this spinach dish, which I tasted in a little restaurant alongside a relatively quiet canal, just might be able to trace its heritage to the spice-laden caravans of Marco Polo's time. To make the journey full circle, use a Chinese wok ― it's the perfect pan for quickly wilting the voluminous fluff of dark green leaves.