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For the Chinese Star Anise-Orange seasoning, pour 21/2 qts. water into a deep pot. Add 11/2 cups dry sherry, 2/3 cup kosher salt, 1/4 cup soy sauce, 3 tbsp. sugar, 1 cup coarsely chopped unpeeled fresh ginger, 12 star anise, 4 cinnamon sticks, 2 tbsp. red chile flakes, and zest of 4 oranges or 8 tangerines. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. Nest pot in ice water until cool. Discard cinnamon and stir in 2 cups orange juice or tangerine juice.
Accompaniments: Orange or tangerine slices, sushi rice, and green onions cut in 2-in.-long slivers.
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