Petaluma farm produces range of wonderful cheeses

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No breed of cow has a more ardent proponent than the Jersey does in Larry Peter. Jerseys fell out of favor, he says, because they don't produce as much milk as Holsteins. But the milk the gentle brown cows do give is proportionately higher in butterfat and protein. In Peter's opinion, it's ideal for making cheeses, which he does at Spring Hill Farm in Petaluma, California.

Peter's cheeses range from fresh and delicate to complex and developed, including cheddars, jacks, and several proprietary creations: Breeze, similar to but slightly firmer than a white-coated brie; a soft Italian much like teleme; golden, buttery Giana, similar to Italy's taleggio; and pale yellow, smooth, mild Old World Portuguese, like a cheese Peter grew up with.

Spring Hill Jersey Cheeses are sold in natural-food stores, such as Whole Foods, and in other specialty food and cheese shops in the West. They can also be ordered from Spring Hill Jersey Cheese, 4235 Spring Hill Rd., Petaluma, CA 94952; call (707) 762-3446 or e-mail springhillcheese@yahoo.com.

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