Helen Evans Brown, who wrote Sunset's Adventures in Food feature during the 1950s and '60s, taught me that texture could add as much variation as seasonings to a dish. And in Helen's day, salads, where texture is a core issue, were often made entirely of chopped ingredients, including the greens.
Today, these dense chopped salads are making a comeback as an interesting alternative to mixed green salads. Recently I enjoyed this hearty, handsome version in New Mexico.
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