Two aromatic Mexican herbs, epazote and hoja santa, have arrived here with cheeses made by Paula Lambert's Mozzarella Company in Dallas. Epazote, a bitter herb used sparingly, is mixed with green chilies in queso blanco (top in photo), a mild, fresh, squeaky-textured white cheese that gets squeakier, not softer, when heated ($10 per lb.). Hoja santa, a big leaf with a mint-anise-tarragon fragrance, is wrapped around a chunk of soft, fresh chèvre (goat) cheese (left and right in photo), imparting to it a subtle taste and smell ($14 per lb.). To order, call (800) 798-2954. Shipping costs extra.
Try the hoja santa goat cheese on toasted tortilla chips or dried banana chips. Slice the queso blanco to eat plain or use it in this simple salad.