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Oakland's La Calle Asadero
Thomas J. Story
California's must-eat burritos
NorCal:
El Grullense Grill (1280 El Camino Real, Redwood City; 650/368-3737). On a strip of Redwood City known as Little Michoacán. Great salsa roja.
My order: Succulent carne asada.
El Tonayense (3150 24th St., San Francisco; 415/550-9192). Top taco trucks in San Francisco.
My order: Juicy, rich al pastor.
La Calle Asadero (1000 Broadway, Oakland; 510/251-1290). Prettiest burrito place I’ve ever been to.
My order: Burrito de La Calle, with refried beans.
Pajaro Food Center (307 Salinas Rd., Watsonville; 831/724-3654). A Central Valley supermarket stocked with Mexican ingredients.
My order: I went for buche; this is the place for that and rare cuts like cabeza and lengua.
Taqueria y Mercado de Los Amigos (1999 Pescadero Creek Rd., Pescadero; 650/879-0232). A cult-favorite taqueria tucked inside a gas station.
My order: Carne asada.
SoCal:
Al & Bea’s Mexican Food (2025 E. First St., Los Angeles; 323/267-8810). Supple tortillas dusted with flour that fit in the palm of my hand.
My order: Bean and cheese, and, for nostalgia’s sake, an Orange Bang.
Angie’s Mexican Restaurant (14346 Pioneer Blvd., Norwalk; 562/863-1277). Family-run with machaca (shredded beef stew).
My order: Subtly spicy chile verde.
El Patio #2 (1001 N. Magnolia Ave., Anaheim; 714/826-0691). The place looks like all the others, but the burritos have extraordinary flavor.
My order: The crisp-edged carnitas have a heady pork perfume that knocked me flat.
Lupe’s #2 (4642 E. Third St., Los Angeles; 323/266-6881). An L.A. landmark, with 12 kinds of burritos.
My order: Green chile and cheese.
Super Cocina(3627 University Ave., San Diego; 619/584-6244). Only a few miles from the border, with a rotating menu of 16 stews.
My order: Chile colorado with cubes of pork in a red chile sauce.
Next: Reader's share their favorite burrito spots across the West
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