Ireland's green beauty may leave a more lasting impression than its cuisine on some. But frequent visitors Charlotte and Stanley Fisher (Stanley was once a local lad) have high praise for the meals they enjoyed in the south coast city of Kinsale, County Cork, corroborating its local reputation as a gourmet capital. Charlotte, who appreciates an easy recipe that works well, passed along this Kinsale version of soda bread. It's made with whole-wheat flour, which another Irish buff friend of mine declared makes it brown bread. I'm sure such a fine point of semantics can be settled calmly over a foamy pint with a warm wedge of this hearty bread and a nice hunk of cheese.