Super squash

With roasted chestnuts, it makes an elegant side dish

Successful synergy among ingredients in a dish can lift those foods to a new plateau of taste. Sometimes the magical combination is obvious; other times it's very subtle. It takes a discerning palate, for instance, to credit chestnuts for the depth and richness of this golden squash dish. At the Water Grill in Los Angeles, the mixture is the foundation for pan-browned Atlantic char. But because the squash goes so well with other fish, as well as poultry and meats, I've turned it into a casserole for party and holiday dinners.

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