Chef Katsuo "Naga" Nagasawa at Cafe Del Rey in Marina Del Rey, California, presents smoked salmon in a beautifully structured, time-honored sushi roll. But he goes beyond tradition by seasoning the rice like a salad. Inspired by his innovation but lacking his technical skill, I've borrowed the essentials of Naga's salmon roll for a simpler ― but still traditional ― temaki (hand-rolled sushi). I present the ingredients separately; diners put a little of each on a square of nori, then fold the seaweed over the filling ― sort of a Japanese taco.
- FOOD & WINE