A retro dessert

Fall fruit in an old standard
JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO

Quince-Apple Crisp

Who eats quince anymore? This old-fashioned fruit ― hard, astringent, and inedible raw ― came West with pioneers. They made the effort because, cooked, quince is quite another story ― tender, sweet, and moist, much like cooked apples (there's one interesting quirk: quince turns more golden or pink), with a pleasant musky, floral flavor. Bruce Naftaly, chef and owner of Le Gourmand restaurant in Seattle, shares his recipe for an old-time dessert worth remembering.