Noodling around

International accord on dinner in a bowl

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Green Onion Noodle Soup

James Carrier

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Green Onion Noodle Soup

As I've trekked through intriguing cities in Asia, such as Hong Kong, Kyoto, and Bangkok, I've noticed that the best-value restaurants feature noodles. They also offer great dining adventure ― there's no end to the kinds of noodles and presentations. After innumerable noodle houses, I've acquired a hunger for the savory-sour-salty balance of this hearty soup.

To simplify cooking it at home, I've shifted my shopping from Asian markets to supermarkets, substituting sour pickles for salted mustard greens, ground turkey for ground pork, and fettuccine for Asian noodles. But should this soup turn up in a Thai noodle shop, my guess is that few would discern it was plain old home cooking.

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