Not all breads need to be kneaded in the ordinary way. Take brioche, for instance. This buttery, springy, fragrant dough is best beaten, instead of massaged, to perfection. In olden times, bakers pulled the dough from the bowl and slapped it back until it came free without sticking. But in the age of machines, turn to your electric mixer for a simple execution of this classic French bread ― one form of which is a golden ring called a crown.