In a jam

Jammer Cream Scones

Scone Secrets

Quick breads, leavened with baking powder (and sometimes baking soda), are so named because all you do is mix and bake. No need to knead ― except for biscuits and scones. For these breakfast favorites, you knead the dough just enough to create layers that separate slightly during baking (too much kneading makes them tough).

At the Grand Central Baking Company in Portland one day, I settled on the Jammer, a big, flaky biscuit with a well of jam in the center, recalling teaching my own daughter how to jam her thumb into the dough to make the sweet pockets.