At i. Cugini restaurant in Santa Monica, the culinary accent is Italian, as clearly expressed by this salad. It flaunts the
colors of Italy's flag ― red, white, and green ― with three kinds of leaves, each of which has a slightly bitter edge. Italians
like to play this edge against creamy pastas and juicy steaks. A number of other countries ― including Mexico, Ireland, India,
and Madagascar ― fly these colors too; the salad could be served with equal patriotic zeal in 10 nations.
Jerry Anne Di Vecchio
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