Cultivated taste

Magnificent mushrooms, simply prepared
JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO

Oven-fried pompons for 4

Pompon mushrooms appear in markets in fall - football season - conjuring up images of cheerleaders. But pompon, not pom-pom, is its generally accepted label. It has others, too: pom pon blanc, lion's mane, bearded tooth, goat's beard, bear paw, and sea sponge. This shaggy ivory puff tastes like a cross between sweet fresh crab and delicate bone marrow.