When dinner isn't suited to rolled-up sleeves, I go for Newburg, a shellfish classic. The delicate sauce enhances, without overwhelming, the sweet freshness that makes lobster so appealing. You cook and shell the animals in private, hours ahead ― and save the brilliant red hulls for a dramatic presentation. You can even start the sauce in advance. My only break with tradition is to whip the cream; I add part to the sauce and reserve a cool dollop to spoon on last. The pale cloud melts smoothly into every bite.