Citrus and crab

James Carrier
Grapefruit gets its sea legs

Chef Katsuo "Naga" Nagasawa, of Cafe del Rey in Marina del Rey, California, surrounds his marvelous crab cakes (with so much sweet crab and so little else, they barely hang together) with a zesty grapefruit sauce, beurre blanc-style: with butter stirred in. For another exhilarating voyage, serve the sauce with grilled salmon (be sure to include the final swirl of butter).

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