Aw, shucks

Oyster luxury off the half-shell
JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO

Roasted Oysters Decadence

Oysters imply luxury, even if only slurped from the shell. But when John D. Rockefeller was setting standards for affluence in the late 19th century, a New Orleans chef created Oysters Rockefeller, a dish that reflected the indulgent era. Butter, greens, herbs, and anise were baked over oysters on the half-shell.

The yen for indulgence is back. At Eastside West in San Francisco, Oysters Decadence is an amplified on-the-half-shell offering. At home, I follow the steps of chef-owner Scott Dammann but use individual ramekins ― no shells, no slurping, lots of luxury.