Wine pairings

Goin's business partner Caroline Styne, also the wine director for A.O.C., chooses Riesling for the salads: “The goat cheese and tomatoes work with wines that show a bit of sweetness as well as racy acidity.” For the sausages, Syrah. “Its dark fruit and intense savoriness reflect the gamy yet sweet flavors in the meat.”

• Domaine Ostertag 2010 Riesling “Vignoble d’E” (Alsace, France; $30). “The aroma is of peach and honeysuckle; when you sip, you get apricot and unripe stone fruit, along with pumpkin-pie spice and a long, rich finish.”
• Tatomer 2009 Riesling, Kick-on Ranch (Santa Barbara County; $30). “This young winemaker learned from the masters of Riesling in Austria. With classic Riesling aromas of diesel (a good thing), jasmine, and honeysuckle, the wine itself has richness, yet also bright acidity and intense minerality.”
• Copain 2009 Syrah, James Berry Vineyard (Paso Robles; $60). “This winemaker, Wells Guthrie, is a genius. Full-bodied, with dark berry fruits and a hint of black olive and tar.”